Nérac is a medieval centre on the Baïse river, with a Henri IV château, a lovely park, and some good restaurants. It’s also a solid base for hiking in the Lot-et-Garonne countryside.
The Hike
This loop starts at Cauderoue, just outside Nérac, and passes through farmland, forest, and the Gélise river valley. It’s about 10.6 km with around 266 metres of elevation gain — rated moderate on AllTrails. Allow about 3 hours.
The route takes you past the Château de Cauderoue (a 12th/16th-century château that’s now a B&B, set at the end of a grand cedar-lined driveway), down to the Moulin de Sainte-Catherine on the Gélise, and through pine and oak forest before looping back via the hamlet of Coutet. Part of the trail follows a section of the GR654, one of the Compostelle pilgrimage routes.
It’s mostly forest paths and farm tracks. Some sandy stretches through the pine woods — this is where the Landes forest begins — and some sections along the river that are pretty. It’s a good honest walk through real countryside. Although it can be muddy after rain, the soil has a much better grip as it’s primarily sand. So it’s a great walk to do in winter, we went in January.
Nérac
Worth spending some time in before or after the hike. The old town along the Baïse has half-timbered houses, a couple of good cafés, and the Parc de la Garenne, a riverside park originally laid out in the 16th century. Henri IV grew up here, and the town hasn’t entirely gotten over it.
If You Go
- Distance: 10.6 km loop
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Start: Cauderoue, ~3 km from Nérac centre
- Trail: Château de Cauderoue on AllTrails
- Combine with: A wander around Nérac, or the Moulin des Tours at Barbaste (15 min drive), a fortified 13th-century mill on the Gélise that looks like a small castle
gascony girl 