Fall in the Lot – November 2024
Rocamadour is a city built vertically into a 150-metre limestone cliff above a canyon. It’s one of those places that doesn’t look real until you’re standing in front of it.
The History
The site has been a place of worship since at least the 9th century. Rocamadour was one of four great pilgrimage destinations of medieval Christendom, alongside Jerusalem, Rome, and Santiago de Compostela. Pilgrims climbed 216 steps on their knees to reach the Black Madonna, a small walnut-wood statue credited with miracles. A million people still visit every year. Most take the lift now.
The Massif Central
Rocamadour sits on the Causses du Quercy, a limestone plateau on the southwestern edge of the Massif Central — a huge highland region covering about 15% of France. The landscape here is all sinkholes, underground rivers, canyons, and dry rocky plateaux carved out by water dissolving limestone over millions of years. It’s wild, quiet, and nothing like the France most tourists know. But the hikes are fabulous, and we would recommend going for that reason alone.
The Hike: Trois Moulins
We did the Three Mills loop through the Alzou valley in October. Perfect timing — golden leaves, soft light, no crowds. The trail drops into a shady canyon and follows the river past ruined stone mills. The Moulin du Saut, a fortified mill wedged into a rock outcrop where the valley narrows, is the highlight. The path is rocky in places so bring proper shoes, but it’s not hard. About 9–12 km depending on your route, 3–4 hours.
Along the way we passed a group of French cave divers in full gear, casually hauling tanks down to one of the gouffres — flooded sinkholes that make this area one of Europe’s top cave diving spots. They disappeared into the freezing turquoise water like it was nothing. Our dog watched with visible horror. We agreed with him.
If You Go
Combine with: Gouffre de Padirac, a spectacular underground cavern, 15 minutes away
Where: Lot département, ~2 hours from Toulouse
The hikes:
When: Spring or autumn. Summer can get crowded. October was ideal.
gascony girl 